Choosing Roofing Nails With Care
At first glance, it may seem like an inconsequential detail, but in reality, choosing the most appropriate type of roofing nail to secure your shingles with is a big deal. The material out of which the roof nails are made will affect the durability of your roof job.
Aluminum roofing nails are easily the most commonly used type, and they work well with asphalt shingles in most situations. They are also a good choice for some metal roofs. These nails are very sturdy, will not rust, and come at a relatively low cost.
If you live near the Florida coast, where salty sea winds can be an issue, stainless steel roofing nails are a better option than aluminum. Although they cost a bit more, they are even more corrosion resistant than is aluminum and are that much stronger and more durable as well.
Galvanized steel roofing nails, which are zinc-coated, bring the level of durability and anti-rust protection to even greater heights. These are quite pricey, but in some situations, they are worthwhile.
All roofing nails should be only a couple of inches long at most and have a broad head to help prevent leaks. They must be pounded close but not actually dig into the shingles or it could weaken them or make them crack. The differences among roof nails is small, but in harsh conditions and storms and over many years, even small advantages can add up to become significant overall.
Flashing, Underlayment, & More
Choosing your underlayment is also important. Usually, felt paper that has been saturated with asphalt to add weight and create a better moisture seal, is used. But rubberized asphalt or synthetic materials may be used in intense climates for even more protection.
Roofing underlayment is typically stapled on, but in high wind areas, you should nail it down with plastic capped nails and also install windstrips along the roof edges to keep the paper down in even strong wind storms.
Metal drip edge needs to run along the eaves of your roof, and the felt underlayment must go over the top of it. But in rake rise areas of your roof, the paper should be overlapped with metal flashing. The underlayment comes in two thickness levels: fifteen and thirty pound, the latter offering stronger water resistance.
Strong, but flexible metal flashing also needs to be run in the roof valleys, along the dormers, and around the chimney. The flashing should be nailed at the outer edges only or sealed to the roof with strong roofing caulk.
Caulks and sealants can cover any gaps in the roof or around vents, chimneys, or solar panels. And roof tar may also be used in areas with high movement.
To learn more on how important these and other shingle accompaniments are to your roof, contact Sheegog Contracting today!